Book Review: ‘Dog Sense’ by John Bradshaw – A Dog Owner Must Read

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Dog Sense by John BradshawFour Paws Up!  This is a MUST read for all dog owners.

If you truly want to understand and develop a wonderful relationship with your dog, this book is a must read.  I’m always looking for information that can help me better understand my dogs, yet it seemed like most available literature on dog training and behavior was mostly anecdotal.  Less common are books based on scientific studies, written by a scientist.  I had not read one until this excellent book written by anthrozoologist John Bradshaw, “Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You a Better Friend to Your Pet.

In his book, Dog Sense, John Bradshaw brings the science that sheds light on dog behavior out of the scientific journals, where the average person would never find them, into an easy-to-understand book that is full of invaluable information and insight.  Bradshaw uses science to explain to us humans how it is our dogs really perceive the things we do and why they see things in their way.  It challenges many of the anecdotal folk knowledge most of us have learned and gives the dog owner a real foundation with which to develop a wonderful relationship with their dog.

Where dog training books simply give you techniques to train your dog, Dog Sense gives you the insight to understand how your dog thinks and understands the world.  This insight helps you better understand how to communicate with you dog and correctly interpret their behaviors.  While this book does not give instruction on training methods, it does explain the reasoning behind, and effectiveness of, positive reinforcement.  It also explains the science and reasoning behind why dominating your dog doesn’t make much human or dog sense.

The book also addresses the problem that in our modern society, dogs are often not permitted to be dogs.  People expect flawless behavior from their dogs with no effort and little concern for the dogs’ needs.  Often, dogs are expected to behave much better than children and show more restraint and control than an adult human.  Even worse, they expect dogs to understand what they are saying and doing just like a human.   While we all are guilty of anthropomorphizing our dogs to some extent, many people expect their dogs to understand what is “right” or “wrong,” just because they said so.  Bradshaw discusses the many ways most people misinterpret dog behavior, thus causing them to punish and praise a dog at all the wrong times.  He explains how people assume dogs understand things that, in fact, they do not comprehend at all.  Imagine if the person you trusted and depended on suddenly punished you and you had no idea why?  As the book explains, this causes countless dogs huge confusion, anxiety, and insecurity.

Another major error Bradford covers in the book is the widely accepted belief that dogs are simply wolves in a different shape.  Science, he explains, has disproved this belief.  Dogs have been man’s best friend for so long that their behavior is no longer that of a wolf; it is absolutely unique.  While they are canine, dogs differ drastically from the wolf in many respects, and it is simply unfair to analyze their behavior from the wolf perspective.  With this foundation of knowledge, Bradford also challenges the notion that our dogs are constantly trying to dominate us in an unending struggle for pack domination.

This book truly provides information that substantially shifts your point of view in dealing with your own dog.  A shift that is certainly for the better.  I wish all dog owners would take the time to read Dog Sense, and gain the perspective that the book offers.  By failing to properly understand them, we are doing our dogs a disservice and causing them unnecessary anxiety, stress, and even pain.

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Back to work and keeping the four dogs happy……..

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This is a problem I was hoping to avoid, however I once again find myself in the position that I have to leave my house to make a living.  Unfortunately sometimes being an entrepreneur just doesn’t make ends meet, so I was faced with the decision of staying with my dogs or paying for their food and care.  None of which is cheap and then multiply it by four.

 

So, here again I find myself having to leave my four dear furry friends early in the morning and not seeing them again till late in the evening.  To catch up on expenses, I had to take two contract jobs, so I am gone from 7am until sometimes as late as after 7pm.  This just started about three weeks ago and it has been a difficult adjustment.

 

The question is, how to keep four dogs happy when you are gone 12 hours a day!  The answer I find is…..

Exercise & Entertainment!

Exercise

The first thing I had to start doing is getting up at 5:30 and making a short round with the two little ones and my senior dog at a slower pace, then a longer, faster-paced jog with my German Shepherd Lizzie.  The good part about this whole thing is I am starting to lose the extra 10 pounds I had put on.  The bad part is, I HAVE TO GET UP AT 5:30am!!!  This is no joke for a habitual night owl.  But my guilt overpowers my desire to sleep, so the doggies get their walks.

 

If you don’t already do this, try!  It’s good for you and your dogs.  And the total suck starts to wear off once you start walking and it actually feels good.  If you can force yourself to get up and out the door, you’re home free.   Your dogs will LOVE you for it!  If you really can’t, try to find a good, bonded, local dog walker to take them out while you are gone.  Make sure of course to check references and be certain you are placing your precious poochies in trustworthy hands.

 

Entertainment

I also leave “entertainment” in the form of a supply of big knuckle bones to distract her with if (when) she starts getting overly obnoxious.  Do be careful what you leave as distractions.  Rawhides, for example, are not a good idea because they can cause your dog to choke and should be used under supervision.

 

Dogs are pack animals, so they hate to be alone.  Having more than one dog is built in entertainment.  The two Papillons love being together and as long as they have each other, they are ok with me going away for a while.  As a cautionary note, do not leave two dogs of greatly different sizes together unattended.  I would NEVER leave the Papillons loose with the large dogs unattended.  A large dog can kill a small dog even in play or if they get in a small disagreement.

Bonus:  A Dog Sitter

I also have the benefit of a doggie sitter in the form of my retired mother.  The downside is she is rather frail, so I do have to make sure that the Shepherd Lizzie is adequately exercised before I get out the door.  I’ve also trained an infallible “BED” command, so if necessary even my mother can secure her in the crate when necessary.  It does give me a lot of peace of mind knowing they are not alone nor do they have to stay in crates all day.

 

If you don’t have the benefit of a retired bored parent, see if you can get that trusty dog walker to come in and check on them if you will be gone too long.  Of course, if you have a secure back yard that is helpful, but not an excuse not to take them out!
I would not leave toy dogs in the yard unattended.  They are too vulnerable to everything, including predators of all kinds including birds.

 

I MISS MY DOGS!

Though these techniques keep my dogs healthy and happy, I still miss them so much.  I miss having my furry friends under my feet and on my chair.  Instead, I am now sharing an office with a human, though nice enough, is nowhere as enjoyable an office pal as my four dogs.  :-(

 

Here’s hoping and praying that things go my way soon and I can return to work at my home office where I belong!

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Ending Food Aggression in Your Dog

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Food aggression seems to be a common problem with a lot of dog owners, but I think in most cases it can be a rather simple fix.  Maybe give these techniques a try if you aren’t AFRAID of your dog.  If you are afraid of your dog, you should probably get a trainer to help you conquer the fear otherwise you’re unlikely to have much success.

My German Shepherd Lizzie had tendencies to food aggression soon after I got her, and I am 100% sure that I had not addressed it immediately, it would have become a very dangerous situation.  The techniques I used were intuitive, but I’ve later heard them discussed by trainers and was surprised to see Cesar Millan do similar things on a couple of his shows.  I was 100% determined there was to be zero food aggression, especially toward me or one of my tiny Papillons.

I discussed in a previous post the major benefits in having a dinnertime ritual.  Well, I realized that if you haven’t established that early, it’s probably not an easy thing to implement if you have multiple dogs.  If you have multiple dogs, train them one-by-one separately until you can work on bringing them together.

Some simple tricks:

1.  MOST IMPORTANT RULE:  You can’t be lazy when feeding your dogs.  You MUST stay and supervise as your dog eats.  Don’t just put the food down and walk away!  Feeding is a hugely important time, so make sure to put aside 5 minutes while they eat.  Dogs don’t small talk during meal-times so it rarely takes long.  If you have a finicky dog that refuses to eat, just put the food up and try at the next meal time.  Dogs are just like us, if they are hungry, they will eat.

2.  HOLD THE BOWL.  If you have a dog that shows food aggression, use the dinnertime ritual to make him wait until you say “ok” to eat.  Then, don’t put the bowl down.  Hold the bowl up off the ground where your face is not near the bowl, you have complete control over the bowl, and if your dog makes the slightest sound or aggressive gesture, you can quickly remove the bowl.  I used this technique with Lizzie and her growling possessiveness over her food bowl came to a grinding halt.  She couldn’t feel possessive of a bowl she couldn’t control.  Feed this way as many times as it takes for you to see the dog let go of possessiveness.

3.  STAND CLOSE AND SUPERVISE:  Once you feel comfortable that your dog has progressed with the holding the bowl exercise, start putting the bowl down.  But do NOT go back to dropping the bowl and running or you’ll end up right where you were before.  Put your dog in a sit-stay, place the bowl in front, and only when you release may the dog go to the bowl and eat.  Again, DON’T leave.  Stay right there close to bowl.  You should be able to touch the bowl, the dog, stick your hands in the bowl, whatever.  Don’t take the food away from the dog as long as they are ok with all this.  The second you see your dog tense up and guard, use your feet and back your dog up off the bowl IMMEDIATELY.  It’s your bowl and you paid for the food, so let him know that.  If the aggression is still strong, maybe go back to holding the bowl.  Keep doing this until you trust your dog 100%.

4.  EATING AMONG OTHERS:  When eating all together, you absolutely must stay and supervise.  If you do not, whoever finishes eating first will inevitably try to go nab somebody else’s bowl whether they are still eating or not.  Each dog has THEIR bowl and the do not eat out of anybody elses bowl.  You are the referee.  If one dog starts moving into another dog’s area, YOU back them up.  If you do this consistently, your dogs will trust YOU to be the moderator and not feel the need to fight amongst themselves.

Four Dogs and their treatsFour dogs eating treats

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I hope those little tips are helpful.  They have worked wonderfully with my pack, big and small!

 

Any other techniques or comments are very welcome!

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10 Dog Safety Rules for Children and Adults

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I felt compelled to write this post after seeing so many people violate what should be basic rules of dog etiquette, and also hearing so many people express their opinion that dogs should basically tolerate pretty much anything short of a beating without reacting negatively. Many really do believe that they should be able to harass dogs at will without consequence. This is simply not fair to dogs and a recipe for disaster for dogs and humans.

While we claim to be a dog friendly and dog loving country, it seems like that is not quite the case. Rather it seems there are a group of people who truly care for dogs enough to understand them and incorporate them into their lives, a larger percentage that like dogs but don’t take the time to understand them, many more that are ok with dogs as long as they “stay in their place”, then those who may or may not tolerate dogs but really don’t like them.

In contrast, I spent some time living in Paris, where I did observe the ideal symbiosis between man and dog. Dogs are a fixture of Parisian life. They are in shop windows, sleeping on the floor in restaurants and bars, and hanging out in beauty salons. They stay where their owners work and are such a common sight in Paris that I never once saw anyone feel the need to go up to one and pet it. It’s like every Parisian has an understanding that you don’t go running up to a dog minding its own business and pet it anymore than you would go running up its shopkeeper owner and pat him on the head. This is the understanding I so wish people would get here. Respect their space.

Here are some basic rules, but if in doubt, if you wouldn’t do it to a strange person, don’t do it to a strange dog.

10 Dog Etiquette Rules

1. NEVER ever run up to a strange dog to pet it. Most dogs will tolerate it, but I’d say most don’t really enjoy it either. I’ve had people pop out of nowhere in front of my German Shepherd in ways that alarmed and startled me not to mention a dog. Don’t do it!

2. When you get permission to pet a dog, don’t reach your hand out OVER his head. Dogs find this intimidating and threatening. Rather, stand slightly sideways and extend your hand slowly, palm up, UNDER the dog’s chin.

3. For the love of everything holy, PLEASE never stick your face in front of any dog that you don’t have a trusting relationship with.

4. Do not blow in a dog’s face to tease it unless you really want to reshape your nose.

5. Remember to show SMALL dogs at least as much respect as you show big ones. Small dogs are cute, but they very often do not want to be petted. Small dogs tend to be too cute for their own good. Everyone wants to pet them and many of them absolutely do NOT want the attention. As with bigger dogs, the rules apply to little dogs too.

6. Ideally, don’t walk up to strange dogs at all. Let them come to you if they wish. If they don’t wish, then don’t force your company upon them.

ADDITIONAL RULES FOR CHILDREN: If you have a dog and children, you MUST teach your children to respect the dog and treat it properly. Children should always be taught how to treat dogs and should be supervised until they reach an age where they understand and can be trusted.

7. Your dog should have a kennel in a room where it can go to be left alone and rest. When the dog goes to this place, children should leave the area and let the dog have its quiet time.

8. Children must be supervised to ensure they are not playing too roughly with a dog. Make sure young children do not throw hard objects at the dog, hit the dog, etc. (I have seen it, so I’m putting it in here).

9. Teach children not to make sudden and threatening moves at a dog. This can trigger a defensive reaction and a bite.

10. Just use common sense and be observant. Watch your dog’s and other dogs’ body language. If you pay attention you can tell when a dog has really reached its limit and needs its space. Each dog is different, so learn your dog and make sure you are giving him the respect he deserves.

I really wish people would simply observe basic etiquette with dogs and respect their space. The incident of dog bites, like the one in Home Depot not too long ago would not happen. Many many people resent the presence of dogs and believe dogs should stay in the backyard “where they belong.” Many have very strong opinions that they should not have to observe any etiquette with dogs.  They feel it’s an inconvenience to them and since dogs are animals, they humans should not be forced to change any habits.  They strongly believe, and often express in less-then-friendly terms that if us dog owners would just keep our dogs where they belong (in the back yard locked up), their lives wouldn’t be disturbed by pesky dogs in public. Their answer to dog/human interactions gone wrong is to simply keep dogs away from any public locations. We, as dog owners who strongly feel that dogs deserve better than that, and who have dogs that are part of our lives, have to educate others and socialize our dogs well (meaning yes, taking them into public). Unfortunately, the more dogs are banned from public, the less socialized they become. It’s a vicious cycle.

In conclusion, take your dogs out as many place as you can to socialize them. Patronize as many dog friendly places as you can. We need dog friendly businesses to stay in business. And if your dog isn’t a big fan of the random petting, don’t lock him away, take him out but make sure he gets his space.  Protect your dog from unwanted advances.  As he gets more comfortable, let people give him a treat. Let’s work to keep dogs part of our outside society by not giving the dog haters any more ammunition and keeping it fun and safe for everybody else.

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Some dogs do not deal well with stress!

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While there are some dogs that seem to bounce around anywhere without effect, most dogs do get stressed when taken to new environments and situations.  Sometimes the only stress signs they show is the “yawn.”  Yes, the yawn.  It doesn’t always mean sleepy.  In stressful situations, dogs will yawn.  Other dogs will have much more dramatic stress reactions such as vomiting and diarrhea.

I am writing about this now because both Lizzie and Mr. Darcy had horrible stress reactions over the last two weeks.  Two weekends ago, I left Lizzie at a boarding place that a friend recommended in Houston, Texas.  Heidelberg Kennels.  I dropped her off on Thursday morning and picked her up on a Monday.  (I will discuss Heidelberg later)  Monday, I almost did not recognize her.  I even checked the little scar she has on her muzzle to make sure!  Her fur was falling out in handfuls, she looked like she had lost weight and was starving when she got home.  She also had horrible diarrhea and vomited.  This was all from STRESS!

The vet gave me medication to control the constant diarrhea and a bland diet that she was on for a week.  I had to get up every couple of hours all night to let her out before she started to recover.  It took two weeks for her coat to start to look normal again.  She also slept for three days after she got home.  The stress of staying at a strange, impersonal place was simply too much.  It was like she was willingly dying.  She was not sick from any disease, simply stressed and sad.  Talk about feeling guilty.

Then, yesterday, I took Riyo and Darcy to the agility event hosted by our wonderful local Obedience Club.  I decided to take Darcy too so he could try to get more comfortable in crazy environments.  I carried him around for a while, but he seemed to be unhappy with it, so I put him back in his crate.  Poor Darcy vomited and got instant diarrhea in his kennel.  What a total mess.  I had to leave the show early to take him home after hosing him and the crate off.  Then at home he was still so upset, he actually diarrhea’d as I was trying to blow dry him!  Fortunately, I keep medicine on hand for that and after spending a couple of hours resting in his crate, he was back to normal.

I’m sorry if this was a gross post, but I wanted to illustrate how dogs can have extreme physical reactions to stress.  This isn’t to say that you should never take your dogs anywhere, not at all.  I have to back up and start getting Darcy more comfortable with less crazy situations.  Riyo may not care for people, but I took him around so many places with me that he had a blast at the agility event.  I had his treats on the table by us and when people wanted to pet him, I’d say “he must be bribed” (which is true), and they would take a little treat, give it to him and get a little pet in.  It was fabulous.  But Riyo is obviously less sensitive to crazy locations.

Just FYI, be aware of the effects of stress on your dogs!

 

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The Doggie Dinnertime Ritual

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In my experience, the dinner time ritual that I started with my oldest dog is the most effective behavioral tool in so many ways.  It reinforces so many important dog behavior rules and training all in an exercise and it takes less than a minute a day.  Your dog learns respect for you, it reinforces your place as pack leader, prevents food aggression, promotes harmony between dogs in multiple dog households, teaches restraint, good manners, sit, look, ok release, and stay.  This is real doggie training bang for your buck.

Four dog dinner time ritual

Four dogs politely waiting to eat

I don’t remember why or when I started doing this with my first dog, Carmina, or even where I learned it.  I learned it from somewhere, but it has been so long I don’t know where.  Carmina, the mixed breed rescue dog who is now 12 years old was once what Cesar Milan famously terms a “red zone dog.”  She is the reason I started learning about dogs, simply to learn how to prevent her from knocking me off my feet while attempting to attack any dog in sight.  She was my only dog for 8 years, until I got Riyo four years ago.  Obviously, by the time I got 4.5lb  Riyo, I was comfortable knowing that I could trust Carmina.

Each dog since has been indoctrinated into the dinner time ritual.  It is much easier training one dog at a time, as you can imagine.  If you already have 4 dogs, it will be much harder to get this started.

Here’s what you do.  You have their food prepared, and your dog is all excited to start chowing down.  Usually, you put the bowl down and the dog’s head is in it before the bowl hits the floor.  Many dogs immediately become possessive of it at that point.  Instead, make the dog sit, then start to put down the bowl.  As soon as the dog starts to move in, stand up again and put the dog back into a sit.  If you have to put the dog into a sit, do it.  Don’t let that bowl hit the floor until your dog understands it is not allowed to move forward.  After the bowl is down, your dog will undoubtedly move toward it again.  Stay over the bowl like you own it and put the dog back into a sit.  You will be surprised how fast they figure this out.  Do NOT let the dog move toward the bowl until you release it with “OK!”  Most likely after a few days, they will get this ritual perfectly.

I taught each dog the same ritual as soon as they came into the house.  Since Carmina already knew the drill, I could easily focus on training Riyo because she knew the rules already.  Riyo learned within a couple of days.  The Darcy came and the same drill.  Carmina and Riyo would sit politely and wait until I explained the rule to Darcy.  He got it within a few days as well.  I also fostered a Doberman for a week that also learned the same drill within a couple of days.

Then, I added Lizzie who exhibited signs of food aggression, growling over the bowl, right off the bat.  That stopped within the first week I had her and never returned.  It was the same drill, the other three dogs waiting patiently and politely as Lizzie got schooled in dinnertime manners.

I also added the word “look” to the ritual.  Carmina I did not bother with “look” as she is old enough that seeing at all is an accomplishment.  The other three, as you can see in the picture, actually have to look me in the eye.  They also learn the release word “ok” extremely well.  You can talk, countdown, whatever, but until you say “OK!” the dogs wait.  Start with 10 seconds, but work up to where you can do at least 30 seconds to a minute with no problem.

my four dogs eating together

My four dogs eating together

As you can see, the result is four very different dogs eating right next to each other with no problems.  Considering Carmina (lower left) came to me with the caveat “she needs to be separated from other dogs,” this is a great thing.  Lizzie also could easily be an aggressive beast if left to her own decisions.

In conclusion, in less than a minute a day, this exercise helps with numerous behavior issues as well as teaches and reinforces obedience commands:  “sit,” “stay,” “look,” and “ok.”  It doesn’t get much easier and less time-consuming than that!

 

P.S.  If you noticed Lizzie has very little food in her bowl, it’s because she already ate half a bag of chicken and a raw drumstick during her tracking run.

 

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Riyo’s 8 Steps of Social Conduct and the “Pick you up!” breakthrough

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Since the behaviorist fiasco, I have stumbled upon some methods that help Riyo cope with the few people who wish to socialize with him. In public, Riyo is actually fairly good believe it or not. His problem areas have become more controlled and tend to be worst in “his” places. I know, I know, I can practically hear Ceasar Milan reprimanding me when I say that. And I know the reason he hasn’t improved much at home or in the car at drive-throughs is my fault. I don’t work work on it enough! So he still barks madly at Taco Bueno and tries to remove ankles at the door.

He has, however, had some small successes in these areas. With the help of friends who would like to get along with him and actually make an effort (and they are few and far between), I discovered that if you observe proper social etiquette with him, he is not as much of a jerk. I will explain. Riyo is a perfect example of the Ceasar “No touch, no talk, eye contact” rule. Now, should you attempt to break these rule, there are more rules:

Riyo’s 8 Steps of Social Conduct

Step 1. Say hello very nicely in the gentlest possible manner. No tough talk or you’ll get it right back.
Step 2. In a non- threatening manner, slowly approach him — ideally turned sideways (one thing that behaviorist got right)
Step 3. Get down as close to his level as possible. No towering.
Step 4. Say hello again nicely as he grumbles at you and stomps his feet.
Step 5. Slowly extend your hand, palm up, and say “shake?” If he decides you are ok, he’ll chill out and shake your hand.
Step 6. This is for the few and the brave who wish to continue. Move a little closer and lightly touch him as you move your other hand up. As he sees the second hand, he will jump up and start grumbling again, but don’t give up.
Step 7. Say Riyo, I’m going to “PICK YOU UP.” At which point he will grumble a whole lot more. Repeat again if necessary, and say it like you mean it. Firmly but not loudly or angrily. He will grumble again, but despite the fact that he does not wish this to happen, he will move up and assume the pick me up position.
Step 8. Pick him up. And all is well. You may now pet and walk about the cabin.

The most interesting part of this whole thing is the “shake” and the “pick you up.” Once he learned shake, that seems to be a way he can associate with people in a civilized manner. The “Pick you up” part is even better. He used to literally freak out; thrashing, peeing, screaming, and biting if anyone tried to reach back and pick him up. It turns out 90% of the freak out was because he didn’t understand the person’s intentions! Once he understood the words “Pick you up,” he understood what was coming next and not only didn’t freak out, he’d actually assume the position. I find it convenient as well when I want to pick him up and he’s bouncing around acting silly. As soon as I say “pick you up” he quits his antics, runs up and assumes the position. It’s great.

If anybody else has these kind of problems, or even if you don’t, it’s a great thing to communicate to your dog! All it takes to teach it is repeating that phrase “pick you up” every time you pick him up for a 100 or so times. Next thing you know, the dog has put two and two together! It’s kind of neat.

For the front door issue, I tried the “time out” trick. I had a small piece of furniture near the door that I dubbed his “time out spot.” When visitors came to the door and Riyo attempted to give them nubs for feet, I would place him on top of this furniture and make him sit and stay. For whatever reason, once given the stay command, he would control himself and stay. It did require putting him back in time out a few times to get my point across, but it seemed to be pretty successful when I did it. I discovered pretty much in any place or situation when he starts being rude, the time out spot does work.

I have to add that for whatever reason, when it comes to me, none of this applies. I think he grumbled at me once, at which point he got a grumble 10 times worse back and it never happened again. Whatever I tell him, he does with joy; and he’s my best buddy. But if someone else tells him to sit…..well…..let’s just say if dogs could talk, he would be telling them where to go.

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Riyo flunks agility class and meets the doggie shrink

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Now that I learned a bit more about agility and have some renewed confidence, I will tell my first attempt at trying this sport. When I got my first Papillon, Riyo, I took him to a beginning agility class at an agility club. He was great learning  the basic commands in the class, BUT…the instructor wanted the dogs to do an exercise where another person in the class calls your dog, and your dog is supposed to go to them. I still don’t know why this was important for agility, but anyway…that little exercise Riyo failed with flying colors. Not only would he not move toward the other person, he would just stand there and bark at them. There was NO WAY. So, he was not permitted to continue and the instructor referred me to a dog behaviorist.  We never got within 50 feet of a tunnel, chute, or anything else agility. THAT didn’t go quite like I’d hoped, now did it.

Enter dog behaviorist. I did contact the lady I was referred to, and she showed up at my house in a little mini-cooper with a bag of chicken and a clicker. Her fee, a mere $300. WHAT? At that time I only had two dogs and more money, so I signed up and she started her first session. As soon as she turned her attention to Riyo, he started barking at her incessantly until he literally almost passed out. I’m not exaggerating. The little dope would bark so rapidly he’d hyperventilate and almost fall over. So she tries standing sideways to be less intimidating, ok good idea, and as soon as there is a break in the barking (aka hyperventillation) she would click and treat. Now in theory this sounds like this could be a good idea. Dog associates ceasing to bark with a treat and learns to stop barking. Now, the flaw in this plan, which Riyo also noticed, is that you must first bark to stop barking. Right?

Three sessions and $300 later, Riyo is successfully trained to bark incessantly when he wants a treat. He still despised the trainer and wouldn’t let her near him, but he’d bark to get a treat. I guess the up side to it was that the barking changed from a aggressive, defensive bark to just an annoying begging bark. And yes, you can actually tell the difference. So to this day, Riyo barks at whosoever may be holding food in hopes of getting a click and a treat. Now THAT didn’t go quite the way I wanted either, now did it.

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King of the Stupids

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I must stress, I did NOT give poor Riyo this nickname and I never call him this.  But.. as I mentioned, his issue is he hates men.  When I go to my friends house to stay with her, Riyo barks at her husband ever time he moves.  It frustrates her husband to no end, because he tried to make friends with him, but it just never worked.  So, in retaliation, he calls Riyo “king of the stupids.”  Their two young sons find that name entertaining and often use it as well.  Poor Riyo.  He’s not stupid at all.  I have worked on this problem and it is better.  He even gets along decently with the boys.  But not enough to lose the nickname yet.  Maybe someday.  Stay tuned….

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