Food aggression seems to be a common problem with a lot of dog owners, but I think in most cases it can be a rather simple fix. Maybe give these techniques a try if you aren’t AFRAID of your dog. If you are afraid of your dog, you should probably get a trainer to help you conquer the fear otherwise you’re unlikely to have much success.
My German Shepherd Lizzie had tendencies to food aggression soon after I got her, and I am 100% sure that I had not addressed it immediately, it would have become a very dangerous situation. The techniques I used were intuitive, but I’ve later heard them discussed by trainers and was surprised to see Cesar Millan do similar things on a couple of his shows. I was 100% determined there was to be zero food aggression, especially toward me or one of my tiny Papillons.
I discussed in a previous post the major benefits in having a dinnertime ritual. Well, I realized that if you haven’t established that early, it’s probably not an easy thing to implement if you have multiple dogs. If you have multiple dogs, train them one-by-one separately until you can work on bringing them together.
Some simple tricks:
1. MOST IMPORTANT RULE: You can’t be lazy when feeding your dogs. You MUST stay and supervise as your dog eats. Don’t just put the food down and walk away! Feeding is a hugely important time, so make sure to put aside 5 minutes while they eat. Dogs don’t small talk during meal-times so it rarely takes long. If you have a finicky dog that refuses to eat, just put the food up and try at the next meal time. Dogs are just like us, if they are hungry, they will eat.
2. HOLD THE BOWL. If you have a dog that shows food aggression, use the dinnertime ritual to make him wait until you say “ok” to eat. Then, don’t put the bowl down. Hold the bowl up off the ground where your face is not near the bowl, you have complete control over the bowl, and if your dog makes the slightest sound or aggressive gesture, you can quickly remove the bowl. I used this technique with Lizzie and her growling possessiveness over her food bowl came to a grinding halt. She couldn’t feel possessive of a bowl she couldn’t control. Feed this way as many times as it takes for you to see the dog let go of possessiveness.
3. STAND CLOSE AND SUPERVISE: Once you feel comfortable that your dog has progressed with the holding the bowl exercise, start putting the bowl down. But do NOT go back to dropping the bowl and running or you’ll end up right where you were before. Put your dog in a sit-stay, place the bowl in front, and only when you release may the dog go to the bowl and eat. Again, DON’T leave. Stay right there close to bowl. You should be able to touch the bowl, the dog, stick your hands in the bowl, whatever. Don’t take the food away from the dog as long as they are ok with all this. The second you see your dog tense up and guard, use your feet and back your dog up off the bowl IMMEDIATELY. It’s your bowl and you paid for the food, so let him know that. If the aggression is still strong, maybe go back to holding the bowl. Keep doing this until you trust your dog 100%.
4. EATING AMONG OTHERS: When eating all together, you absolutely must stay and supervise. If you do not, whoever finishes eating first will inevitably try to go nab somebody else’s bowl whether they are still eating or not. Each dog has THEIR bowl and the do not eat out of anybody elses bowl. You are the referee. If one dog starts moving into another dog’s area, YOU back them up. If you do this consistently, your dogs will trust YOU to be the moderator and not feel the need to fight amongst themselves.
I hope those little tips are helpful. They have worked wonderfully with my pack, big and small!
Any other techniques or comments are very welcome!










